Sprinkler winterizing in DFW? Absolutely. If you have an irrigation system, you’ll need to prepare it before cold weather is a reality. No one likes to do it, but failure to winterize will leave you paying costly spring repair bills.
Don’t do this and you could be left with shattered sprinkler heads, frozen pipes, and fractured valves. The even worse case scenario? You might not even realize the damage has occurred until you switch everything back on a few months later.
So we’re discussing when to winterize your sprinkler system, your options, and more!
Winterization, in short, is all about draining all of the water. To the very last drop, even. The premise is to have your pipes, valves, and sprinkler heads dry and vacant with nothing for winter weather to ruin.
When this is not done, pipes are usually the first to be affected. They break and crumble. Plastic valves shatter, and sprinkler heads get pushed straight out of their place because of the ice building up inside.
Here’s what to remember regarding other systems. Most of the newer ones are brittle white PVC pipe or flexible black polyethylene. The PVC is extremely brittle, so it shatters with no give when it freezes. Polyethylene will withstand the cold better because it flexes, but even that will burst if there is water in it and it expands.

The biggest thing is that you do it before the temperature drops below freezing. Obviously, exact timing will depend on where you are.
In more northern states, you’re generally looking at around late September to early November. If you’re in the mountains or have some part of high altitude, you’ll want to winterize the sprinkler system even earlier.
Down south in Texas, it’s either late November or early December. A few of the southern regions of the nation may not even require it at all. Call our friends at Andy’s Sprinkler, Drainage & Lighting for more details.
Although most of their locations are in southern and coastal regions, they do provide extra winterizing in those regions where they expect protracted freezes.
Again, don’t wait until the last minute! Everyone’s thinking about it on the first day when it freezes, but of course, it’s more disorganized then. Preparing ahead of time avoids the hassle.
This one is the most hands-on. Start by shutting off the primary water shut-off to your plumbing system. Sounds easy, but people forget this process too many times. Closing a hose spigot doesn’t count. You’ll actually have to dig around and find the real main shut-off valve, and it’s probably stashed away in your basement or utility closet somewhere.
Second, open all of your low-point manual drain valves. Then go to your controller and run one full cycle with the water already shut off. This will activate all your automatic valves and allow any trapped pressure in the mainline to be relieved. Once that cycle is finished, place your controller in the rain position or off.
Good news regarding this process? It won’t cost an arm and a leg. Bad news? Water prefers to seek out low ground or annoying areas, and you’ll likely miss some.
Is it a do-it-yourself project? If your system contains drain valves that must be manually opened and you feel handy enough to find them and open them, go ahead.
If your system is pre-installed with this setup, half the job is already done. Automatic drain valves kick in and release water every time pressure drops below a predetermined value.
But that’s where it all gets mixed up. They are great for lateral lines and sprinkler heads, but they won’t even touch the main line. You still need to drain that mainline yourself…or you’re asking for a big break. Also, inspect any valves that you have, because they also trap water.
The good news about this winterizing solution? It doesn’t actually require any effort from you. The bad news? It’s not perfect. You may still need to do some additional work just to make sure.
Can you do it yourself? Mostly. But you should understand what your system can and cannot do.
This is done through a big air compressor that blows compressed air out through your pipes to force out all the water. It’s effective, no matter where you reside or the kind of system you have.
The issue is that you need some equipment that provides you the right PSI (pounds per square inch) and CFM (cubic feet per minute). You’re generally discussing 40 to 80 PSI and a compressor that provides you 30 to 100 CFM. Keep the pressure too high and you could end up doing more bad than good. Set it low and there’s water left behind.
Nothing will drain your system any quicker though. But you need special equipment, and you’re taking a risk if you have no clue what you’re doing.
Will your irrigation system need a blowout? Only if you live in an area of extended freezes. Most of our clients, though, are in warmer areas that don’t need blowout servicing.
And what about other winterization alternatives? Seasonal take-out or insulating above-ground irrigation components. This keeps your system safe from surprise cold snaps and other surprise weather conditions.

You can get your hands dirty if you want, just know what you’re getting yourself into.
There are certainly some advantages to having a pro winterize a sprinkler system.
For those who want to do it themselves, here’s a quick breakdown of how to do it. You’ll need to be really careful with each step.
You might need to run each zone twice to be double sure that you drained all of the water.
Can I water my lawn during winter?
Yes. Just adjust winter watering schedules. Continuous watering keeps your lawn healthy until spring.
What do I do if I don’t winterize my sprinkler system?
Shut off water to system and set controller to “rain mode” immediately. Then have a pro drain it as soon as possible. It’s not ideal, but at least you’re trying.
Can I just not winterize if I live in a warm climate?
If your winter temperatures are never going to dip below freezing, you can just turn off the system. But if you’re seeing temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit forecast in the weather, it’s better to be safe than sorry.
What PSI is best for a blowout?
Never exceed 80 PSI. In flexible poly pipe, never exceed 50 PSI to avoid damage.
How long will a blowout take?
A do-it-for-you professional blowout for the typical residential sprinkler system will cost around 30 minutes, but a DIY blowout will take an hour or more.
How will I know it’s blown out?
When a zone is finished in a blowout, you will know because the sprinkler heads will be blowing out a clear, fine mist instead of wet spray.
Winterizing your sprinkler system is not too terrible, especially if you get a professional to do it for you! But it’s a necessary winter task that saves your yard and keeps you away from costly repairs.
That’s why we joined forces with Andy’s Sprinkler, Drainage, and Lighting. Here’s what their customers love about them:
Reach out to Andy’s before winter to schedule your sprinkler system check in Dallas, TX!